The Magic of Indianapolis
As a disgruntled teenager being forced by my parents to move from the Chicago area to Bloomington six years ago, I was pretty much predisposed to hate everything about my new, unwanted life. But especially Indianapolis--how could any city compare to my beloved Chicago?
And it’s true; for a long time I hated my new school, my new house, my new surroundings and my new routines. But somehow, I was never able to hate Indy. Somewhere in between stepping out onto the turf in Lucas Oil Stadium for the high school marching band state finals and eating my first fancy steak at St. Elmo’s Steak House, I was more than able to make room in my heart for two cities instead of just one.
Indianapolis is magical in a different way for everyone. I sat down with Ann Curtis, managing editor of Edible Kentucky & Southern Indiana, Bryn Mooth, editor of Edible Ohio Valley and Jennifer Rubenstein, publisher of Edible Indy, to find out what makes the city special for them.
What’s your favorite downtown spot to explore?
AC: The Indianapolis Cultural Trail is definitely one of my favorite aspects of downtown Indianapolis. Whether you're walking it, biking it, driving it or eating your way through it, the trail brings together art, culture and food, showcasing the diversity of the city while reminding us how united we are in the human experience.
BM: Mass Ave is a favorite destination, for sure. We have a dog and are huge fans of Three Dog Bakery; we don’t have a shop here in Cincinnati, so I love to stock up on treats whenever I’m in town. And I have to be careful when I walk into Silver in the City; I could walk out of there with a whole bag full of cute jewelry for me and accent pieces for my home and kitchen. When we were in college, my friends and I would all go to the Chatterbox for live late-night jazz; there was really nothing else around there. It’s amazing to me how that part of Downtown has become so vibrant.
JR: For me downtown is everything you want and more. Whether you want great comfort food to ethnic delights, exploring art galleries to taking in a sporting event, Indianapolis has it! One of my favorite spots in the entire city is City Market. It is packed full of local vendors who make amazing soups and sweets to the best tamales in the city. It gives you a chance to really get to know what the city has to offer in one spot - and another benefit is in the summer on Wednesday the Original Farmer’s Market is hosted with street vendors, ice cream treats, fresh produce and even live music.
Favorite locally-owned food spot in Indy?
AC: Surrounded by raised bed gardens growing vegetables and herbs used in the menu, Black Market (Closed as of September 5, 2020 due to Covid-19 - please support more local restuarants) brings authentic Mexican cuisine to a new whole level. A full wine, regional beer and cocktail menu brings relief to the hot and humid summer days. Beholder offers interesting twists on what one might call "traditional" dishes. Constantly experimenting with flavor combinations and beautiful plating, this dining spot will leave you feeling like you've just experienced something unusually special. And the wine list? Does the fact they were named a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Outstanding Wine Program offer any clues?
BM: My go-to restaurant in Indy is definitely Oakley’s Bistro. Chef Steven Oakley’s food is always so thoughtfully and artfully prepared; dining there always feels special but never stuffy. And the man has a way with soup that I just can’t get enough of. If we’re celebrating a birthday or just having lunch and a glass of wine, that’s where my family goes. My mom is pretty much a regular!
JR: Plat 99 in the Alexander Hotel makes killer lattes and Chef Eli Laidlaw crafts the most delicious vegan breakfast treats in the city. The other spot for food hidden away in a hotel is Spoke & Steele in the Le Meridien. The words “Spoke and Steele” pay homage to the Indianapolis 500 and their bourbon program will rival that of anyone in town. And the atmosphere is stunning…
Any off-the-beaten-path spots downtown you’re in love with?
AC: These days the only way to escape to far-off lands is through culinary adventures. Thank goodness for The Bosphorus Istanbul Cafe where you can enjoy the scents and flavors of Turkey from the comfort of your home!
BM: I don’t do it often enough when I’m visiting, but I really enjoy walking along the White River Canal Downtown. It’s just such a lovely oasis threading its way among the buildings, kind of hidden away from the bustle.
JR: Wildwood Market in Fountain Square makes me happy. This old oil change/gas station turned market carries great grab-n-go sandwiches, fresh local produce and lots of Midwest makers and artisans sell their products on the shelves. Totally worth the trip.
What’s your favorite meal you’ve had in Indy, and from where?
AC: I have probably had more meals at 3 Sisters Cafe in Broad Ripple than any other restaurant while visiting Indianapolis over the past 20 years. The lemon corn cakes with fresh seasonal berries are a great way to start the day. For lunch, you can't go wrong with the 3 Sisters or Eggplant sandwich.
JR: My favorite meal down is anything at Livery. The empanadas, yucca fries and margaritas make for the best night. It is our go-to spot when hitting a show downtown. And then for a night cap, Ball & Biscuit will craft a perfect beverage based on your flavor profile and they never miss the mark. And the name… you will see why it is Ball & Biscuit when you walk through the vintage door.
Where are the go-tos for coffee, tea and spirits when you are downtown?
AC: Calvin Fletcher's Coffee Company has everything I seek in a coffee shop: delicious coffee, handcrafted goods from local artisans (with 100% of proceeds going to the artists!) and a commitment to the community. The Calvin Fletcher’s Coffee Company Charitable Foundation does this in spades by donating money raised through tip cups to small local nonprofits, up to $1,500 per month.
JR: While you are in Fountain Square, don’t pass up Bovaconti’s for bocce ball and coffee and for drinks, head over to Hotel Tango for some craft cocktails, good conversation and to meet the distillery cat.
Do you go to any of the downtown markets?
BM: My family are all passionate cooks, so we enjoy shopping and cooking at home, lingering at the table with glasses of wine and good food. My mom is a devotee of the Market District, and my brother and I like to visit farmers’ markets in Fishers and Broad Ripple. Goose the Market is another stop whenever I’m in town (I’m lucky: I can also get their cured meat goodness at my favorite cheese shop here in Cincinnati). When I visit my dad, I’ll swing through Joe’s Butcher Shop in Carmel to grab some steaks he can throw on the grill. I grew up going Downtown to City Market. Even years ago, before it reclaimed its status as the city’s original farmers’ market, it was a great place to go browse around and pick up a bite for lunch. The soaring space and historic vibe make the building itself feel really special.
Anything else you want to share with our readers on what you love about downtown Indianapolis?
AC: What impresses me most about Indianapolis is their ability to innovate and grow in new ways by showcasing the local talent and embedding diverse cultures into the fabric of the city's identity.
JR: Downtown for me is special. There are so many gems and historic places to explore. From Madame Walker’s Theater (Watch SelfMade on Netflix to see who this amazing woman is) to the canal, Indianapolis is home. It is safe, beautiful and can give you everything you need whether you are local or visiting from out-of-town. And I would be remiss if I didn’t offer up the must visit St. Elmo’s Steak House for their award winning shrimp cocktail. And yes, we have the best damn shrimp cocktail even though we are in Indiana.
Need more ideas for where to eat, drink, shop and explore in downtown Indy? Check out the Visit Indy website.